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Old 06-19-2007, 11:24 PM
picus picus is offline
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Default The evolving detailing process...

Hey guys; I was speaking with George today and I mentioned how my process has evolved over the past two years when doing compounding work. I thought I'd mention some times saving steps that I find also increase the quality of my work.

First, and probably most importantly, I've started using silicone remover type wash products. The one I'm using in particular is called Hi Temp Prep Wash: Silicone Remover . I will touch on this more in a second, but I've started using this as my initial wash product. I find this does two things; removes any wax/sealant on the car and also helps reduce the time it takes to clay the car, since the clay doesn't pick up as much crud (it's removed during washing).

For claying I use poorboys spray & wipe as a lubricant, but I've also started mixing one ounce of bug squash into it. Seems weird, I know, but it helps remove bug stains (and this time of year there are a lot of them).

I never re-washed before polishing, however I now go one step further and tend to only wipe away polish residue when I want to check progress. This means my initial cutting steps I will remove it. If I have any trouble I mix an ounce of prep wash in a bottle with water; you'll laugh how easily it takes off caked on residue. When I am 106'ing (or any finishing polish), I've almost stopped wiping off residue. Why? Instead of ISA:water I now re-wash the car with prep wash; it removes all traces of the polish and cleans up any residue on mouldings, cleans dust and residue out of seams etc...

Speaking of compounding, George once asked me why I keep buying orange pads from him. I think I've ordered close to (or more than) 50 in the last 2 months. Why? I use a new pad each panel. Sounds nuts, right? I find polishes, particularly levelers and heavy compounds work better on a clean pad. They cut better, finish better, and are more easily removed... so I swap pads between each panel. The time savings is noticeable.

Here's another one; after you clean the wheels during a wash you can leave them alone; I found out poorboys WS will remove light brake dust and dirt. I've started using it as both a cleaner and a wheel wax. It won't remove tough brake dust, but it will remove light dust, water spots, etc. It works on exhaust pipes too.

I'll think of more; I just wanted to write these down quickly since they were on my mind, particularly the silicone-rewash. If you've got some tips to add, maybe even some that vary from conventional wisdom, I'd love to hear them.
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Old 06-20-2007, 12:13 AM
derek80 derek80 is offline
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Wow, great info Kevin, interesting indeed.
Now, I don't have enough experience to comment on how my detailing process evolved, definitely some changes here and there, but nothing drastical, probably getting more used to it.

Quote:
Silicone Remover - removes any wax/sealant on the car and also helps reduce the time it takes to clay the car, since the clay doesn't pick up as much crud (it's removed during washing).
Although I haven't used this product, I agree with you Kevin.
Some cars I detail are such in bad shape to begin with, even a good wash doesn't remove some amount of contaminants. Prior to claying, I try my best to wash as clean as possible (of course, with minimum pressure).
On tough spots, I usually spray PB Bug Squash (undiluted) and had good luck.
Kevin, do you feel Silicon remover being harsh, like Dawn? Let us know more about it as you gather more experience.

Quote:
I use a new pad each panel. Sounds nuts, right? I find polishes, particularly levelers and heavy compounds work better on a clean pad. They cut better, finish better, and are more easily removed... so I swap pads between each panel. The time savings is noticeable.
No wonder...haha, you get a huge from me.

Quote:
After you clean the wheels during a wash you can leave them alone; I found out poorboys WS will remove light brake dust and dirt. I've started using it as both a cleaner and a wheel wax. It won't remove tough brake dust, but it will remove light dust, water spots, etc. It works on exhaust pipes too.
Good to know Kevin, seems like there is enough carrier solvents to do some cleaning.
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Old 06-20-2007, 08:57 PM
picus picus is offline
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I don't find prep-wash to be harsh. It is stronger than a regular auto wash, but I don't think that is as a result of detergents of higher acidity. I am not sure exactly, but I believe there is a chemical in it that works to dissolve silicone, which makes sense. To give you an example; if you use dawn on a car covered in 106ff (say you polish and don't wipe), it will clean it but you need to use pressure. If you use alcohol and water, same deal. With prep wash it just eats it up, you wash like normal. It's kind of interesting.
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Old 06-21-2007, 02:59 PM
Juztang Juztang is offline
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Great info Piccus!
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Old 06-21-2007, 08:28 PM
picus picus is offline
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Thanks. I was going to add something else I was reminded of today while doing an S4, but I can't remember what it was... It'll come to me!
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Old 06-29-2007, 11:54 AM
FijiBlueSI FijiBlueSI is offline
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Great post Kevin!
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Old 10-21-2007, 10:38 AM
Dogged Dogged is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by picus View Post
I've started using silicone remover type wash products. The one I'm using in particular is called Hi Temp Prep Wash: Silicone Remover .... I've started using this as my initial wash product. I find this does two things; removes any wax/sealant on the car and also helps reduce the time it takes to clay the car, since the clay doesn't pick up as much crud (it's removed during washing).
...

[After polishing] I've almost stopped wiping off residue. Why? Instead of ISA:water I now re-wash the car with prep wash; it removes all traces of the polish and cleans up any residue on mouldings, cleans dust and residue out of seams etc...
I wanted to thank you for these tips. A few months ago I bought some Hi Temp Prep Wash (1 gallon for 15 bucks). I have used it prior to a clay bar, and between polishing and applying a sealant or wax. I have also used Prep Wash before changing to a new sealant or wax, although I think to entirely remove a good sealant or wax may require something more.

Prep Wash is promoted as preparing the surface for the proper bonding of glazes, sealants and waxes. I have not tried to observe or figure out whether it works better than a mixture of Isopropyl Alcohol and water, which I am not sure I could do if I tried. However, I have been quite pleased with Prep Wash.
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