Wax - An Article

[TOGWT]

Wax:
The word "wax" usually refers to a variety of organic substances that are solid at ambient temperature but become somewhat free-flowing liquids at slightly higher temperatures. The chemical composition of waxes is complex, but normal alkenes are always present in high proportion, and molecular weight profiles tend to be very varied.

The main commercial source of wax is crude petroleum, but not all crude oil refiners produce wax. Mineral wax can also be produced from lignite, plants, animals and even insects produce materials sold in commerce as wax. There is normally no more than 15% to 20% natural wax content in retail car care wax, some products also contain a high percentage of Diatomaceous earth, this helps to provide shine by its sleight abrading ability and is evidenced by the large amount of powder residue left on the car when the wax product carrier system evaporates.

Most car care product chemists agree that when it comes to a wax formulation there is no advantage between pastes, creams or liquids. It has more to do with production cost and marketing than; ease of application or removal, its protection or surface gloss abilities. The only ingredients that will make a difference is wax quality and percentage content, and its carrier system (i.e. type of solvent / silicone and / or mineral oils used) Paste wax is just a thicker form of liquid wax, a different consistency, not necessarily even more or less solvents. Some wax products use an emulsion (oil-in water) to keep more liquid without adding solvents which, in high concentrations could affect durability as it would dilute the wax content.
(See also Wax basic components, Carnauba Wax, Best Wax or Sealant, Polymer - Wax Differences)

Carnauba wax molecules are closed linked, which means that they only but up together to protect the surface, they sacrifice paint depth for increased durability. The open linked Polymer molecules form together to create a chain like effect. Polymer sealants also have greater life expediency than a carnauba wax. A carnauba wax is expected to last approximately 6 to 8 car washes, opposed to about 26 washes with the use of a polymer sealant.

Fracture/evaporation temperatures: Polymers 350oF, Silicone oil 350oF, Mineral oils 200oF, Synthetic blends (Carnauba wax / polymers) 200oF, Carnauba wax 180oF, and Bee’s wax 130oF. In actual practice the high temperatures frequently encountered by vehicles from the radiation causes wax compounds to melt, for example, a painted surfaces exposed to ambient temperatures of 85oF in direct sunlight, will obtain a temperature of 195oF or more. It should be noted that there is a range of temperatures at which melting begins and that the 'melting point' is the end point of that range. Carnauba wax will bond to a cross-linked polymer; conversely if a polymer is applied on top of a Carnauba wax it is unable to form a bond due to the waxes oil content

Generally you can expect 50% of your Carnauba wax layer to be gone after 30 days, 75% after 60 days and 95% gone after 90 days. You should plan on waxing your car four (4) times a year. You can extend the waxes life expectancy by parking in a garage, using a car cover and by using a quick detailer spray (QD) like Pinnacle Crystal Mist.

Storage- a refrigerator will provide a cooler temperatures and more constant humidity that will slow the evaporation of solvents from the wax, thus keeping the wax softer and easier to use over a longer period of time.

Beeswax - has been traded for over 2000 years; references to "wax" before the 19th century typically meant beeswax. Yellow beeswax is secreted by bees to build honeycombs; the empty comb is melted in boiling water to recover the wax. Yellow beeswax can be bleached with oxidizing agents to white beeswax, a product favoured in the cosmetic industry. The composition of beeswax varies widely with geography and the diet of the bees forming the combs, but typical components are C25-C31 hydrocarbons, esters of C30 -C32 alcohols with C16 acids and free C25 - C31 carboxylic acids.

Other animal-based waxes include Lanolin from the wool of sheep, and Ambergris, produced in the intestines of sperm whales. Another example of animal waxes that have been traded in the past is Spermaceti, derived from the head oil of the sperm whale. Of course, the endangered status of the whale has stopped trading in this product and resulted in the development of synthetic substitutes. One of the most enduring qualities of the wax business has been the ability to improvise and develop substitutes in the face of supply disruptions.

Carnauba wax - is recovered from a variety of palm tree which grows almost exclusively in north-eastern Brazil. Carnauba wax forms on the fronds of the trees and is recovered by cutting and drying the fronds, then mechanically removing the wax. Impurities are removed from the wax by melting and filtering or centrifuging.
Carnauba wax is distinguished by its hardness and high melt point, combined with an ability to disperse pigments such as carbon black, properties which make carnauba useful in printing inks. It is also used to gel organic solvents and oils as a component of solvent and paste formulations. Carnauba polishes to a high gloss, and is used to polish items such as leather products, candies, metal surfaces, etc.

Candelilla wax - is harvested from shrubs grown in the Mexican states of Coahuila and Chihuahua and in Texas. The entire mature plant is uprooted and immersed in boiling water acidified with sulphuric acid; the wax floats to the surface for recovery. Principal markets for Candelilla wax include cosmetics, food and pharmaceuticals. Other vegetable-based waxes include Japan wax, produced on the berries of a small tree native to Japan and China

Ouricury wax - obtained from the fronds of another palm tree growing in Brazil; Rice-bran wax, extracted from crude rice bran; and Jojoba, obtained from the seeds of the jojoba plant grown in parts of Costa Rica, Israel, Mexico and the United States.

Môn tan wax - is derived by solvent extraction of lignite. The earliest production of Môn tan wax on a commercial scale was in Germany during the latter half of the nineteenth century, and Germany continues to lead the world in production of Môn tan wax; some Môn tan wax is produced in the United States from the Ione lignite bed in California. The composition of Môn tan wax varies geographically with production, but includes varying amounts of wax, resin and asphalt.

The largest traditional use for Môn tan wax is in the formulation of carbon paper inks. The decrease in use of carbon paper resulted in Môn tan wax being further refined for use in the formulation of polishes and as plastics lubricants. Môn tan wax is hard and brittle and has a high melt point; its properties are similar to those of natural plant waxes such as carnauba, which it can replace.

Other mineral waxes - include peat waxes, Ozokerite and Ceresin waxes. Peat waxes are similar to Môn tan waxes in that they contain wax, resin and asphalt, but Môn tan waxes contain 50% more wax in proportion to peat waxes. Ozokerite wax was a product of Poland, Austria and the former USSR where it was mined.

True Ozokerite is no longer produced but has been replaced with blends of petroleum-derived paraffin and micro-crystalline waxes designed to meet specific applications once filled by Ozokerite.
Most of the waxes described so far can be characterized by a higher degree of difficulty required to recover and purify them in significant quantity. Waxes derived from petroleum are much easier to recover, and offer a wide range of physical properties that can often be tailored by refining processes. Most producers offer two distinct types of petroleum waxes: paraffin’s, distinguished by large, well formed crystals and micro-crystalline, higher melting waxes with small, irregular crystals. Some producers also sell "intermediate" wax, the boiling range cut where the transition in crystal size and structure occurs.


Petroleum wax producers also characterise wax by degree of refinement: fully refined paraffin has oil content generally less than 0.5%, and fully-refined micro-crystalline less than 1.5%; "slack wax" - precursors to the fully refined versions in either case would have oil content above 2 and as high as 35% by weight.

Paraffin wax - produced from petroleum is essentially a pure mixture of normal and iso-alkanes without the esters, acids, etc. found in the animal and vegetable-based waxes.

Synthetic (Microcrystalline) waxes - entered the wax market in the last 50 years or so. They are usually formulated from Polydimethylsiloxane (PDS) or dimethicone)) silicon, which is a basically inert, water based, amino functional polymer resin, Carnauba wax and also contain substantial proportions of branched and cyclic saturated hydrocarbons in addition to normal alkenes. These synthetic waxes are more durable than the natural carnauba

All synthetic waxes have the same basic structure, but the various production processes yield products with distinctly different properties, and these have a major impact on the use of products

Products from one manufacturer may satisfy one particular application, while product from a similar process will not work well at all. Major uses include hot-melt adhesives for applications requiring high-temperature performance, additives to improve the processing of plastics, and slip and rub additives for inks, paints and cosmetics. The word wax usually refers to a variety of organic substances that are solid at ambient temperature but become free-flowing liquids at slightly higher temperatures.

The chemical composition of waxes is complex, but normal alkenes are always present in high proportion, and molecular weight profiles tend to be wide. The main commercial source of wax is crude petroleum, but not all crude oil refiners produce wax. (See also Melting Point, Wax (basic components, Polymer Wax Differences)

Information resource- NPRA - Wax Q & A Relevant MSDS information

Note- many waxes and polymer sealants actually look better after 24 hours and /or an initial post-application wash

Unless you are using a cleaner-wax there is no need to use pressure on the applicator, just enough to make contact with the surface should suffice. Order of product application- hood- roof-trunk from front to back and, where practical, the quarter panels- door panels- and bumpers from top to bottom. Washing, claying and waxing that way effects the way light reflects off the body panels and is also less likely to show the surface marring or swirls that you will invariably make.

Wax (basic components):
Although somewhat more complex than other products, waxes and sealants only involve very basic chemistry, when a chemist formulates a wax or sealant, several factors are taken into account; ease of application and removal, cleaning and / or filling ability (if required), depth of gloss, shine, durability and resistance to rain / detergents / car wash concentrate.

Unfortunately, no one wax or sealant product can meet all of the above characteristics. If one characteristic is emphasized and / or enhanced, it will be to the detriment of another. For example, increased durability means that application and removal can be more difficult. Or, if cleaning capability is emphasized, the depth of shine will decrease. The best wax or sealant to use is one that provides as many of the characteristics as possible to achieve a shiny, durable finish. Because the ingredients for each of these features work against each other inovative chemistry and a creative chemist are needed

The basic components used in waxes and sealants are;
1. Solvents or mineral oils- used for chemical cleaning, and as a carrier system, it also makes products workable and to provide spread ability, as is the case with Carnauba wax, which in its natural state is rock hard.
2. Emulsifiers - to stabilize the product (oil and water) and make it easier to use
3. Very-light abrasives - to provide mild cleaning and to aid the wax in drying consistently for easy wipe-off
4. Surfactant- defined as a material that can greatly reduce the surface tension of liquids
5. Silicone- is primarily used to modify or improve certain characteristics; i.e. shine, or added as a lubricant to enhance application.
6. Colouring- purely aesthetic / marketing
7. Fragrance- appealing fragrances help to sell the product
8. Polymers - most waxes are formulated with, amongst other things, polymer resins that once cured provide transparency and improve longevity

The unique structure makes these products very effective when used in additive amounts to modify the properties of paraffin wax, primarily for use in candles. The products can increase the hardness and opacity of the paraffin with minimal impact on cloud point or viscosity.

Other uses - include mould release for polyurethane foams, additives for casting wax, and additive for leather treating. A description has been provided of a very interesting market, one over 2000 years old where vegetable, mineral and synthetic materials come together to serve a wide variety of needs. Wax is truly a versatile product whose unique properties pave the way for a myriad of end uses. The most interesting part of this is the ability of wax to re-invent itself over time.

If you could look back over the last forty years you would recognize wax products in every home as part of bread wrap, waxed paper food wraps, cold drink cups and the Pure Pak milk container. Walk into your kitchen today, and you will still find wax used in most of these applications, in addition likely a significant amount of wax is used in the building materials to construct the room. New uses for wax have been found time and again, and the wax market today is as vital as ever. This has been going on since Romans walked the Via Appia, which, of course, was named after the honeybee

Paints from different (DuPont, PPG, BASF, etc) manufacturers do not favour one wax over another; there is no factual basis for custom coloured waxes with pigment dyes to mach original paint, the clear coat is applied for both protection of the colour coat and to give it depth, while allowing the paint colour to show through, some marques clear coat paints vary i.e. some are softer/ thinner etc. If you apply a non-clear wax or sealant, or a custom coloured wax it will only mute the paints colour and depth of shine

© 2004 – 2007 all rights reserved - Jon Miller aka TOGWT™


Reference source-Automotive Detailing Inside & Out, A Knowledge Base for the Perfectionist – by Jon Miller aka TOGWT™

[hockeyplaya13]

I have heard of wax being used to protect things other than paint on a car, such as a license plate, chrome bumper, or chrome wheels. I was wondering if this would work and/or if it would have any benefit at all.

[kernel843]

Wax for wheels and the body are different, but I'm not sure about the actual chemical differences between the two. I'm guessing the wax you use on wheels could be used on a chrome bumper but not sure...never heard of waxing the license plate, don't really see a reason too.

[TOGWT]

Originally Posted by hockeyplaya13

I have heard of wax being used to protect things other than paint on a car, such as a license plate, chrome bumper, or chrome wheels. I was wondering if this would work and/or if it would have any benefit at all.

1800s- In the small German town of Bischofsheim a carriage maker developed a wax based on animal fats to protect the black lacquer type paint that was applied to horse drawn carriages. Later another natural product, Carnauba wax was used

Carnauba wax is used to protect many other things besides automotive paint finishes. Wood has long used wax as its protection, in fact a well known car care product manufacturer, Meguiar’s was founded in 1901 and started out as a wax producer for wood furniture finishes

[Dogged]

Nice article.

Since 50% of the Carnauba wax layer typically is expected to be gone after 30 days, and the fracture/evaporation temperature for Carnauba wax is 180°F, I think I would apply wax every 30 days if I did not also use sealant. In the hot summer months where I live, I bet the surface temperature of my car can exceed 180°F pretty easily if the car is parked outside.

Since beeswax has a fracture/evaporation temperature of 130°F, I guess that is why it is used today in things like shoe wax and to make candles, and not for car waxes.

[TOGWT]

I worked at Los Alamos labs and well remember the NM heat. I would recommend a polymer (Zanio) sealant for these type conditions and a Carnauba wax as an LSP only if your a concourse d’élégance entrant

[hockeyplaya13]

On most waxes it is recommended to apply 3 to 5 coats, 5 being the max. At what point does it become overkill? 5 coats seems like a little much for me. From your experiences, how many coats will provide the optimum shine? I generally do 3, but would 5 increase the shine or just protection?

[kernel843]

Well my understanding is that wax does not really provide much protection, it is mostly for shine...but I agree, 5 sounds like overkill. I usually stick to 2-3.

[Silverado07]

Thank you again, Professor Detail, for the very informative information on wax. I got 9 out of 10 on your last pop quiz, but I had absolutely no idea at to the fracture/evaporation temperatures of polymers and waxes. No I see were you got the information.
Question, I cannot recall where I read this information, cause it was quite a while ago. but it had to do with the temperature of a cars finish in the hot summer sun. Different colors radiated different temps. I recall black as reaching a temp of 245oF. And the shocker to me was a dark green hit a temp of 265oF! That truly boggled my mind!
Do you find that these temperatures seem accurate in the real world? I can now understand why you would recommend a polymer as the evaporative temp is 350o compared to 185o for a natural wax.
And if I may be a little forward, have you ever been involved in formulating your own wax for you or a commercial venture? It strikes me that such a curious mind such as yourself, might try to find out if all the hype out in the automotive world were true about automotive finishes.
Thanks again, I find your articles very informative indeed!

[TOGWT]

Originally Posted by hockeyplaya13

On most waxes it is recommended to apply 3 to 5 coats, 5 being the max. At what point does it become overkill? 5 coats seems like a little much for me. From your experiences, how many coats will provide the optimum shine? I generally do 3, but would 5 increase the shine or just protection?

In a real world situation 3 coats are all you'd need. Having said that I applied 10 'layers' utilizing a 'spit shine' method OTT but Dad's Jag won BOS

[TOGWT]

Originally Posted by Silverado07

Thank you again, Professor Detail, for the very informative information on wax. I got 9 out of 10 on your last pop quiz, but I had absolutely no idea at to the fracture/evaporation temperatures of polymers and waxes. No I see were you got the information.
Question, I cannot recall where I read this information, cause it was quite a while ago. but it had to do with the temperature of a cars finish in the hot summer sun. Different colors radiated different temps. I recall black as reaching a temp of 245oF. And the shocker to me was a dark green hit a temp of 265oF! That truly boggled my mind!
Do you find that these temperatures seem accurate in the real world? I can now understand why you would recommend a polymer as the evaporative temp is 350o compared to 185o for a natural wax.
And if I may be a little forward, have you ever been involved in formulating your own wax for you or a commercial venture? It strikes me that such a curious mind such as yourself, might try to find out if all the hype out in the automotive world were true about automotive finishes.
Thanks again, I find your articles very informati