Polymer sealant (Chem 101)

[TOGWT]

I have been asked on a few e-mails to provide a simple chem explanation of polymers that are used in sealants-

Polymer: [: a chemical compound with many repeating structural unit, or monomers]

From the Greek: πολυ, polu, many; and μέρος, meros; part.The molecular structure of all polymers are based on a chain of carbon atoms, chemically it is a molecule formed by the chemical union of five or more identical combining units called monomers. A non-organic based wax formulated from polymers used to seal paint with a thin hard barrier. They are very durable and provide a very bright, but flat silvery shine. This type of product is a compromise as it does provide durability but lacks the properties of a Carnauba wax lacking both colour and depth, and because of a polymer's inherent Covalent (molecular) structure it cannot mimic the properties of a Carnauba wax.

If not properly engineered, polymer sealants may crack, yellow or distort the optics of the paint surface.Most quality polymer based sealants contain amine silicones (reactive alkoxy group) as well as a blend of resins and a small percentage of wax. Polymers used in sealants require a paint surface form a molecular bond to; they don't do well when asked to bond to metal to provide protection. A clear coat (paint) has porosity, so they bond very well and provide the intended protection. Since clear coat paint has porosity, a durable bond is formed and provides the intended protection.

The presence of oil or water may inhibit the cross-linking process of a polymer or linking together of the chains (monomers or building blocks) to form a ‘structure’ by acting as a barrier and will compromise its strength, durability, drying time, and bonding. Be sure that the surface of the vehicle can be left undisturbed and free from rain and water (condensation, dew,etc)) until the polymer has cross-linked (12-24 hours) or the surface protection may be compromised.

To provide a ‘clean’ oil-free paint surface to enable proper cross-linking use a polish that does not leave behind oils, or use an Isopropyl alcohol / distilled water ‘wipe-down’ or a chemical type paint cleaner (AIO)
Avoid were possible any moisture as the active ingredients (i.e. what isleft behind in the form of a film after application) will be diluted or washed out, negatively affecting its durability. That's why you should avoid rain, even morning dew with any curing sealant layers for at least 12-72 hours (product dependent). So, when you spray water on to a curing sealant, you are compromising its durability.

Fracture/evaporation temperatures - Polymers 350 oF (176°C), Acrylic resin 265 - 285 oF (130 - 140°C)

The term "melting point" when applied to polymers suggests not a solid-liquid phase transition but a transition from a crystalline or semi-crystalline phase to a solid amorphous phase. Melting temperature though abbreviated as simply Tm the property in question is more properly called the "crystalline melting temperature". Among synthetic polymers, crystalline melting is only discussed with regards to thermoplastics, as thermosetting polymers will decompose at high temperatures rather than melt.

Polymer application- ease of product removal is inversely proportional (less product easier removal) to the amount used (0.5-1.0 oz should be sufficient for most vehicles)

Amino-Functional Silicone Fluids -This is a silicone fluid that has been slightly modified (the polymer content differs) the ‘amino’ portion is what causes the silicone to crosslink and physically attach to the paint surface. This cross linking capability is what makes a polymer sealant more durable than a typical wax. It is the inclusion of amino-functional silicone fluids that give us a paint sealant

TOGWT ™ Copyright © 2002-2007. Jon Miller, all rights reserved

[Zipster]

Hello Jon,

I am very grateful for your contributions to this forum. I have been a detailer for a long time and thanks to you, I am learning the intricate details of what is actually happening on a molecular level. It blows my mind every time I read one of your posts. I really think that you should think about writing a book on detailing. I would definitely buy one and treat it like the bible on detailing it would be. I am sure that many on this forum would want one as well.
Maybe there should be a TOGWT Sticky section put somewhere in this site?

Just a suggestion or two,

Zipster

[Silverado07]

Thanks once again. professor, for your time and knowledge of a much talked about subject, your still the man!
Zipster, I think you'll find that Jon is putting together quite an extenxive book on the subject of detailing, chemicals, and processes. Do a search here and on other websites and you will see the extensive knowledge Jon has.
Sorry professor, didn't mean to sidetrack your thread! Thanks again! Enjoy!

[TopNotch]

This is great information. I have also been detailing for years and this answers some of my questions as to why sometimes I get better protection and sometimes my sealant will fail a bit sooner than expected.

[TOGWT]

Originally Posted by Zipster

Hello Jon,

I am very grateful for your contributions to this forum. I have been a detailer for a long time and thanks to you, I am learning the intricate details of what is actually happening on a molecular level. It blows my mind every time I read one of your posts. I really think that you should think about writing a book on detailing. I would definitely buy one and treat it like the bible on detailing it would be. I am sure that many on this forum would want one as well.
Maybe there should be a TOGWT Sticky section put somewhere in this site?

Just a suggestion or two,

Zipster

And now for a shameless self adverisment-

TOGWT ™ Copyright © 2002-2007. Jon Miller, all rights reserved


“Automotive Detailing Inside & Out, A Knowledge Base for the Perfectionist"– by Jon Miller aka TOGWT™

TOGWT ™ Copyright © 2002-2007. Jon Miller, all rights reserved

I hope to have it for sale on my website TOGWT.com end November - early December 2007

This collection of answers to detailing problems and technical information was used for about five plus years to answer questions on various forums, I then decided to put all the information in a 260 page book form and e-publish it as a definitive guide to automobile detailing, and for less than the price of a quality Carnauba wax.

It's not just a How it works, but also a “Why” it works, as well as an explanation of the scientific terminology. I try to write in a way that helps the reader to understand not only "How" to do something, but "Why" they are doing it, along with the technical / scientific facts, but if you’ve read any of my forum posts / threads you'll already understand just what I mean

The purpose of this book is to show you various ways, utilizing various skills and experience levels, on how to retrieve the original or better appearance / finish to your vehicles bodywork and its interior and how to preserve and maintain it, along with product recommendations and there correct application methods.

JonM


Maybe there should be a TOGWT Sticky section put somewhere in this site?
This was talked about sometime ago . . .

[TOGWT]

It's not just a How it works, but also a “Why” it works, as well as an explanation of the scientific terminology. I try to write in a way that helps the reader to understand not only "How" to do something, but "Why" they are doing it, along with the technical, scientific facts along with any relevant chemical information, but if you’ve read any of my forum posts / threads or articles in DetailingWiki you'll already understand just what I mean

This collection of answers to detailing problems and technical information was used for about five plus years to answer questions on numerous detailing forums, I then decided to put all the information in a 400 + page book and e-publish it as a definitive guide to automobile detailing, and all this for less than the price of a quality Carnauba wax, available in .pdf format and will be available end of May (2008) its taken awhile but you'll find its worth the wait