Polymers and Carnauba wax differences

[TOGWT]

Polymers and Carnauba wax differences:
The molecular structure of all polymers are based on a chain of carbon atoms, chemically it is a molecule formed by the chemical union of five or more identical combining units called monomers. The Polymer and waxes used for detailing are semi-solid; they are actually a very concentrated solution in an organic solvent or aqueous emulsion.

Basic components; although somewhat more complex than other products, waxes and sealants also involve just basic chemistry, when a formulator designs a wax or sealant, they consider several factors; ease of application and removal, cleaning ability (if required), depth of gloss or shine, durability and resistance to detergents / soap.

Unfortunately, no one wax or sealant product can meet all of the above characteristics. If one is emphasized and enhanced, it will be to the detriment of another. For example, increased durability means that application and removal can be more difficult. Or, if cleaning capability is emphasized, the depth of shine will be less.

The best wax or sealant to use is one that provides as many of the characteristics as possible to achieve a shiny, durable finish.

The basic components used in waxes and sealants are;
1. Solvents or mineral oils- used for chemical cleaning, and as a carrier system, it also makes products workable and to provide spread ability, as is the case with Carnauba wax, which in its natural state is rock hard.
2. Emulsifiers - to stabilize the product (oil and water) and make it easier to use
3. Very-light abrasives – Kaolin to provide mild cleaning and to aid the wax in drying consistently for easy wipe-off
4. Surfactant- defined as a material that can greatly reduce the surface tension of liquids
5. Colouring- purely aesthetic
6. Fragrance- appealing fragrances help to sell the product

It is the combination of these ingredients that gives a wax its gloss, depth (whether paste, cream or liquid) A properly formulated wax will provide shine to a painted surface and some temporary protection. The protection is obtained by creating a buffer between the paint and the environment.
(For application differences see ‘Polish Directional Application’)

1.Polymer sealant- comprises an open linked molecule, which forms a bond with the paint; these open linked polymer molecules join together to create an elongated mesh like effect that reflects light efficiently due to their inherent flat surface. Because they are usually very transparent they transmit the surface colour faithfully, but they have very little depth resulting in what is perceived as a very bright, flat silver glow, polymers (Zaino, Klasse, Rejex, etc) Some paint sealants contain wax; the longevity of a paint sealant is due to the type of silicone (usually amino-functional silicone) that is used in its formulation. Polymers sealants require a paint to form a convalescent (or Covalent (molecular)) bond to (usually 12-24 hours); they will not bond directly to metal to provide protection

2.Amino-Functional Silicone Fluids - is a silicone fluid that has been slightly modified (the polymer content differs) the ‘amino’ portion is what causes the silicone to crosslink and physically attach to the paint surface. This cross linking capability is what makes a paint sealant more durable than a typical wax. It is the inclusion of amino-functional silicone fluids that give us a paint sealant

3.Carnauba wax (Brazil wax) - molecules are closed linked, which means that they only butt up together to protect the surface and the wax adheres to the paint surface as opposed to bonding with the paint molecules. The wax molecules form an egg-grate type (with the long axis vertical) mesh over the smaller paint molecules of the paint film surface, which gives it an optical depth. Waxes in themselves even with the addition of silicone fluids are not as durable as the amino-functional silicones found in polymers in the formulation as they do not crosslink; but will resist many environmental contaminants only for a short period of time. Brazilian Carnauba wax is usually blended with natural oils (to provide gloss) and water-based solvents to enable it to spread and aid surface lubrication. A wax cures as opposed to cross-linking with paint surface and like most car care products Let the wax cure for 30-45 minutes before buffing, Caution; do not allow wax to entirely dry before wiping, the atmospheric conditions under which you apply the wax affect how the wax will set up and cure. Humidity affects the application because Carnauba is inherently hygroscopic (absorbs moisture) if you notice dark streaks during the application of Carnauba waxes, it tells you that the humidity is high. This will also retard the curing time.

4.Colour, Depth and Clarity- the three factors concourse judges look for when scrutinizing paint film surfaces. Of the three, optical clarity is of primary importance, being able to see the paint film’s true colour by having a really clean surface, clarity will enable depth of shine etc to be seen. Carnauba wax dries to a deep, natural shine; in contrast, bees wax, paraffin and many synthetic waxes tend to occlude (cloud or yellow).

5.Adherence - initially Carnauba wax attaches itself primarily by surface tension; during the curing process the carrier system (an emulsion of solvents / oils) attach themselves to the porous microscopic caps in the paint surface forming a physical anchor. Carnauba wax dries to a deep, natural shine (in contrast, bees wax, paraffin and many synthetic waxes tend to occlude (cloud)

6.Bonding - a Covalent (molecular) bond is formed when polymers cross-link to other molecules, resulting in a solid, durable protective layer. Carnauba wax will bond to a cross-linked (12-24 hours) polymer; conversely if a polymer is applied on top of Carnauba wax the cross-linking / bonding may be compromised. Although I would not state categorically that a product that is formulated with oils will abort the cross-linking or bonding process of a polymer; just that the process may not be as complete, and its strength and durability may be compromised.
(See also Cross-linking and Adherence)

7.Fracture/evaporation temperatures - Polymers- 350 oF, Acrylic polymers- oF, Silicone oil 350oF, Mineral oils 200oF, Synthetic blends (Carnauba wax / polymers) 200oF, Carnauba wax 180oF, and Bee’s wax 130oF. In actual practice the high temperatures frequently encountered by vehicles from the radiation causes wax compounds to melt, for example, a painted surfaces exposed to ambient temperatures of 85oF in direct sunlight, will obtain a temperature of 195 oF or more. It should be noted that there is a range of temperatures at which melting begins and that the 'melting point' is the end point of that range

TOGWT ™ Copyright © 2002-2007. Jon Miller, all rights reserved

[Silverado07]

You did it again, professor! I did not know that they put a sufactant in waxes. I know I put a few drops of auto shampoo in my quart of homemade window cleaner for the purpose of reducing the surface tension for the rest of the ingredients, so it sticks and spreads on the windows. But in waxes? That's a new one on me.
I would imagine that would be to allow the even appliciation of the rest of the ingredients to the surface.
Thanks again for the excellent information, a very worthwhile post! Enjoy!

[Dogged]

That is a nice summary. It is mostly consistent with what I have read. Reading your articles I often learn a lot but do not always agree with everything you state. I will raise a few points not for the purpose of being critical but in the spirit of promoting a constructive discussion to use your article as a means to learn more. I am not competent to comment on many of the technical aspects of the article.

I wonder if the title of the segment, “Polymers and Carnauba wax differences” makes sense. Aren’t polymers one of the components found in most carnauba waxes?

I have read that carnauba waxes and purely synthetic sealants both typically contain polymers. Although I have read that unlike sealants the polymers in carnauba waxes generally are of a type that do not crosslink, I have also come across exceptions. For example, see http://www.autogeek.net/carnauba-car-wax.html and Blackfire Wet Diamond Ivory Carnauba Paste Wax, particularly the latter link.

It think may be worthwhile to note that polymer formulations are chemically engineered, and not all polymer formulations are equal. Is part of the challenge of the chemist is to come up with a better polymer formulation? Also, some manufacturers offer additives to accelerate the cross linking process, and others represent that the polymer formulation used speeds up the cross linking process to some degree.

The comment, “let the wax cure for 30-45 minutes before buffing,” I think needs some qualification. Many waxes need to be buffed sooner. For example, Zymol recommends buffing its estate waxes less than five minutes after application. Swissvax recommends buffing after fifteen minutes. With both waxes, curing can continue after buffing.

It is generally stated that carnauba waxes do not last as long as synthetic sealants with crosslinked polymers, ie resist environmental contaminants for a shorter period of time. However, I have also read that some carnauba waxes, such as Vintage and other well formulated waxes with a very high carnauba content, are quite durable, particularly I assume in the nonsummer months when the wax is less likely to reach its melting point. I also assume that sealants vary in durability. So perhaps this general observation is not without exception.

Bob

[FijiBlueSI]

Great post! Very good info!

[TOGWT]

That is a nice summary. It is mostly consistent with what I have read. Reading your articles I often learn a lot but do not always agree with everything you state. I will raise a few points not for the purpose of being critical but in the spirit of promoting a constructive discussion to use your article as a means to learn more. I am not competent to comment on many of the technical aspects of the article.

Thank you for your kind words, however I would also strongly suggest that you verify any information that I or anyone else shares with you

I wonder if the title of the segment, “Polymers and Carnauba wax differences” makes sense. Aren’t polymers one of the components found in most carnauba waxes?

A1. The only wax that contains polymers is a Microcrystalline wax, they are usually formulated from Polydimethylsiloxane (PDS) or dimethicone) silicon, which is basically inert, water based, amino functional polymer resin. Carnauba wax is a natural product that is formulated with solvent oils that act as a softening agent and also as an aid to spreading.

I have read that carnauba waxes and purely synthetic sealants both typically contain polymers. Although I have read that unlike sealants the polymers in carnauba waxes generally are of a type that do not crosslink, I have also come across exceptions. For example, see DP Max Wax- Made with pure carnauba wax and advanced polymers. and Blackfire Wet Diamond Ivory Carnauba Paste Wax, particularly the latter link.

A2. See above (A1)

It think may be worthwhile to note that polymer formulations are chemically engineered, and not all polymer formulations are equal. Is part of the challenge of the chemist is to come up with a better polymer formulation? Also, some manufacturers offer additives to accelerate the cross linking process, and others represent that the polymer formulation used speeds up the cross linking process to some degree.

A3. As a Chemical Engineer I would agree that a polymer is a chemically engineered synthetic product and there are approx 30,000 different polymer and innumerable polymer formulations

The comment, “let the wax cure for 30-45 minutes before buffing,” I think needs some qualification. Many waxes need to be buffed sooner. For example, Zymol recommends buffing its estate waxes less than five minutes after application. Swissvax recommends buffing after fifteen minutes. With both waxes, curing can continue after buffing.

A4. This is a general statement for waxes, as always you should read the manufactures application recommendations for specific products

It is generally stated that carnauba waxes do not last as long as synthetic sealants with crosslinked polymers, ie resist environmental contaminants for a shorter period of time. However, I have also read that some carnauba waxes, such as Vintage and other well formulated waxes with a very high carnauba content, are quite durable, particularly I assume in the nonsummer months when the wax is less likely to reach its melting point. I also assume that sealants vary in durability. So perhaps this general observation is not without exception.

A5. I can categorically state that a cross-link polymer is far more durable than a Carnauba wax, whatever its % of Carnauba may be. Polymers durability comes from it amino functional silicones and its ability to form a molecular bond (cross-link) with the paint surface, something a Carnauba cannot

[TOGWT]

See also - Wax-An article Wax - An Article