Leather types used (Automotive Leather)

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Leather used in Automobiles:

There are three main types: (a) Natural (Uncovered) (b) Covered and (c) Unfinished (Nubuck);

Before using a leather care product a detailer needs to know the material they are working on, and wither the product chosen is compatible with the material and will not damage it. Diagnosis is the key, not guess work. Before deciding on what products to use you need to ascertain what type of leather finish you have and wither the leather has a polyurethane covering, or is (un-coated) natural leather, as the cleaning / maintenance varies as to type; although they all require a water-based product to re-hydrate, a suede type leather like Nubuck is the exception.

Automobiles manufacturers have blurred the distinguishing lines on what exactly leather is; real leather is the top split of the hide, there are many so called ‘leathers’ that are actually the bottom (suede) of the hide. This is a new development in using split leather. It is produced from the lower split of the hide by first melting a type of glue on the surface, then rolling on a film of coloured polyurethane or vinyl coating, they are being sold by automobile manufacturers as ‘genuine leather’

Leather is hygroscopic (naturally absorbs and retains water), meaning it’s also susceptible to losing the moisture necessary to keep it pliant and soft. The denaturing process of leather tanning removes moisture from the hide, introducing solvent-based products accelerates aging of the leather; water-based products restore the lost moisture of natural leather and maintain its natural flexibility.

Automobile leather is either vat-dyed or a spray-on dye is used.
a) Vat-dyed colour is obtained by immersing the hide in dye, ensuring that the dye permeates through the hide.

b) With spray-on the dye is painted on the surface of the hide, it produces an even colour but the natural grain and looks of the hide is hidden as well as the hide's longevity being compromised. This is also the least expensive way of applying a leather dye (used mainly by both American and Japanese car manufactures) European vehicles are usually upholstered with vat-dyed leather.

All cowhides are naturally oily, unfortunately, these natural oils are stripped away in the tanning process (tanning is the process using chromium salts to preserve hides and prepare them to absorb dyes) and some equivalent oils must be re-introduced after tanning. This last tanning step, the replacement of oils, is called "fat liquoring."

Over the centuries, a number of oils have been found that have a natural affinity for leather fibres. Every leather tanner has his own, unique, blend of tanning oils. These formulas are closely held secrets, passed down through the generations. This is one reason why one company's leather can have a totally different feel, fragrance, texture and softness from another company's product.

Prevention is better than correction - Leather that has become cracked from inadequate or inappropriate care usually cannot be restored to its original state by most available products / methods. It is highly recommended that you fully clean and protect auto interiors leather upholstery surfaces 3-4 times per year. It is much easier to practice prevention than it is to correct major problems after the fact

Identifying characteristics- classified in accordance to their cleaning codes and labels into these basic categories: (Before undertaking any cleaning or stain removal remedies it is essential to identify the type of leather involved);

(NL) Natural leather: has a random shade colours and grain pattern; it will scratch easily; water drops will darken its colour (temporarily)

(A)-Aniline / non-coated: These leathers are colored with transparent dyes which enable you to see the actual grain and markings. The most common process is to spray a wax finish on their surface which only gives short term water repellence.

To determine if your leather is unprotected, lightly scratch the surface to see if it reveals a lighter color, or if leather conditioners or water darken the hide.

(P)-Protected / Coated: This type of leather is also known as coated / covered / or painted. These leathers have aspects of a natural finish, but more uniform in appearance. The heavier pigments can create much darker colours. Protected leather has a substantial finish applied that makes the leather more resistant to heavy wear and stains. The heavier pigments and finish do affect the softness and scent, so these leathers often don't feel or smell like real leather.

To determine if your leather is protected, lightly scratch the surface to see if it leaves a lighter color, or if cleaners and conditioners remain on the surface. Liquids will not penetrate protected leather.

These leathers will also have sheen or even shine. It's like looking at wood with a lacquer finish opposed to a wipe-on oil finish. These leathers are more common in the automotive industry.

(N)-Nubuck / Suede: Sometimes called distressed or suede, this type of leather is actually an un-protected finish that has been brushed. Many confuse this finish with suede leather. Suede is the flesh side of the hide, while Nubuck is an effect created on the grain side, making it incredibly soft. This brushing also makes it more absorbent than regular Aniline leathers.

Nubuck leather will have a texture similar to velvet. If you move your hand across the surface, the nap will change appearance similar to vacuuming carpet. Liquids will darken this type of leather, it has a uniform colour and grain patterns; will not scratch easily; water drops will not change its colour.


Information source: Leather Masters

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Leather Replacement:
This company G.A.H.H. Inc. North Hollywood, California (recommended by Leatherequi) has been the leading manufacturer in the USA of replacements leather car seat covers, non-leather interior seat covers and convertible tops for fine automobiles since 1979. They offer a full line of tailor-made, ready-to-install automotive upholstery kits, leather car seat covers, carpets, door panels, auto headliners, convertible tops, top boots, top parts, and other automobile interior accessories.

Including replacements of original factory designed products and colours, or will customize them to your own colour combinations. Contact Information: 800-722-2292, Fax: 818-767-2786, North Hollywood, California – http//:GAHH: Convertible Tops, Auto Interiors, Quality Convertible Tops

Leather Glaze:
Maintain and protect new upholstery leather with the application of a leather glaze so that the signs of wear can be drastically reduced. It provides extra UVR protection against fading for convertibles, newly dyed leather and the dashboard, for use on leather, vinyl, MB-TEX and hard plastic trim.

Use where the leather receives the most noticeable wear, like the driver’s seat and other high wear areas, like the steering wheel, arm rests, driver’s bolsters and door panels, and for the driver’s seat where the leather receives the most noticeable wear and should be protected.

Leather steering wheel:
Leather Master Strong Effect Cleaner and a soft sponge, spray and work the cleaner into foam, apply and clean and then wipe the grime away with a damp 100% cotton towel (DF Concours products) As an alternative use a cleaning solution (Distilled Water /Woolite® or Dreft® 6:1 ratio or stronger) A soft bristle detailing brush will come in handy for this job

Alcantara - vacuum and damp cloth for maintenance Stains; water soluble stains can be treated with a citrus cleaner (but do not soak) non-water soluble with 1:1 solution water / Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) (See also Nubuck)
Do not clean with steam

Alternative product-
a) Leather Stain / Ink Removers - Leather Stain / Ink Removers Use caution as this is a strong product, and has the potential to remove leather dye, check an inconspicuous area first

b) Steering Wheel Restoration Kit, restore your leather or vinyl Steering Wheel – http//:www.leatherequi.org

c) Alan Gun Leather Accessories, Inc. FL - Alan Gun Leather Accessories

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Do not use on leather surfaces-

c) Saddle soap (it's made to clean an entirely different type of leather), abrasive cleaners, furniture leather polish (they contain a wax), products that contain harsh solvent s or alcohol, as they will cause the stitching to fray and eventually break, petroleum distillate, bleach or ammonia based products, you should not use vinyl products on leather (nor vice versa as the emulsion will not penetrate).

d) Solvent Silicone or Lanolin-based conditioning products as they have trouble reaching the leathers deep fibres, also avoid using leather-conditioning creams on covered leathers as they cannot penetrate the surface finish and the residue will remain leaving a greasy surface on the leather. The silicone oil will dissolve out the leather's natural oils and tend to make the leather sticky. Use a product that contains natural penetrating oils that will nourish the fibres and restore the leather to its natural suppleness.

e) Lanolin - a greasy yellow substance, which is secreted by the sebaceous glands of wool-bearing animals, such as sheep. It acts as a skin ointment, water-proofing wax, and raw material (such as in shoe polish). Lanolin is "wool fat" or grease, chemically akin to wax, insoluble in water, it forms an emulsion.

f) Alcohol or solvents- alcohol can severely compromise / damage the finish of the leather; even a drop may leave a permanent mark, and/or damage the finished surface. Most covered leather finishes are water based and so any alcohol can begin to cut through them, even if you go over it and you see no colour come off, you probably just stripped off the clear protective top coat and are now sitting on the colour coat, which can get tacky very quickly and will eventually wear through as it does not have the durability found in the topcoat.

g) Vinyl dressing - on leather as it will clog the pores of the leather and not allow any essential oils to permeate to the fibre, which will cause the leather to dry out and crack. The difference between leather and vinyl; leather will have an uneven or imperfect pattern to it while vinyl will have a much more even, almost repeating pattern. The depth of the lines within the grain on vinyl is also consistent, while the same lines on leather will vary; it is also usually smooth and soft to the touch.

h) Abrasive products –do not use abrasive products as an abraded surface attracts dirt / grit, which further damages the finish. Products with a high or low pH value or you may cause irreversible damage to the leather or covered leather polyethylene surface

Information resources –
a) How to keep Luxurious Connolly Leather Young and Supple. Krysti Pavlisko 1998
b) Leather Care Facts. Leatherique. 2003 - aspx Home Page
c) The Leather Institute (Townsend Leather Group) The Leather Institute Home
d) How to Restore Auto Leather. D Briggs 2001
e) Leather Master, Scandinavia - Leather Master UK
f) Post in Detailing World forum -http://www.detailingworld.co.uk
g) Article in the Leather Training & Technical Dept Ltd website -http://www.lttsolutions.net
h) IICRC Reference Guide for Professional Upholstery Cleaning (IICRC S300)
i) Top of the Line Auto Detailing Supplies website - Top of the Line Auto Detailing Supplies

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Well, while I’m certainly not a subject-matter expert, much less a guru; I don’t mind sharing the knowledge I have gained from almost five decades of detailing experience, the insights from my profession as a Chemical Engineer, and the research carried out in order to compile a detailing reference book, and as for the rest I usually know where to look for the answers. But I would strongly suggest that you verify any information that I or anyone else shares with you.

“Knowledge unshared is experience wasted”

[Silverado07]

Professor, you keep giving us all this great information and were going to have to wear ear plugs to keep it from leaking out! Your still the man!
Thanks again for all your contributions to our bank of knowledge! Enjoy!

[Bunky]

I did some research (for a post on another forum) and discovered that Leather Master has a water based cream for top coated and aniline leather -- same product. This has been called by some the top product for leather. The product contains oil.

I went to the Lexol site and they have a product for most leather and it is water based and contains oils. I am still looking for the real difference since Leather Master treats top coated leather and uncoated leather the same way in terms of protection/conditioning as Lexol.

There is something I just do not understand.

[TOGWT]

All cowhides are naturally oily; unfortunately, the chrome tanning process removes the natural oils and fat from the hide, reducing the hide to collagen fibres. A process called fat liquoring re-introduces the tanners own blend of balanced fats and oils back into the leather, which coats the individual fibres, sealing them into the hide; they are stable and very difficult to remove. All that is required is the hydration of the leather to avoid it drying out. These formulas are closely held secrets, passed down through the generations. This is one reason why one company's leather can have a totally different feel, fragrance, texture and softness from another company's product.

Subsequent to the chrome tanning process (using chromium salts to preserve hides and prepare them to absorb dyes) automotive leather is pigment coated and finished (and some leather then has a polyurethane protective coating applied) Leather is hygroscopic (naturally absorbs and retains water), meaning it’s also susceptible to losing the moisture necessary to keep it pliant and soft. The denaturing process of leather tanning removes moisture from the hide, introducing solvent-based products accelerates aging of the leather; water-based products restore the lost moisture of leather hides to maintain its natural flexibility.

The finishes have to remain somewhat porous (to allow hydration) A water-based product accomplishes this with an emulsion of micro droplets of oil (for lubrication) and water that permeate the leather finish and / or the polyurethane as the emulsions molecular structure is smaller than the molecules of the leathers surface finish or the polyurethane covering.

As can be ascertained from the above the leather requires hydration and the surface should be protected, conditioning is totally unnecessary.

Both Lexol and Leather Masters ( Leather Vital ) make a water-based conditioner that contains an emulsion of oil and water. Although LM make a leather surface protection (Protection Cream) which in my opinion is of far more value to chrome tanned leather than a 'conditioner'.
But then that's just my opinion, it's for you to decide

(as you can see I'm no guru, apologies for multiple posting, sticking 'enter' key)

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Stain removal products –
Leather is a natural material and varies greatly between manufacturer processing and dyeing procedures, age of leather and individual hides. This is why it's so important to pre-test each cleaner for its suitability on an inconspicuous place prior to use

a) Strong Effect Cleaner, is highly efficient for cleaning leather that is very dirty (will also clean ‘blue jean stains) and has water based stains of any kind (for regular cleaning use Soft Cleaner)

b) The Ink Remover is designed for removal of recent ink contamination. Ink marks older than 3-5 days may not respond or will only be lightened. The biodegradable formula is very easy to use (wax-like stick container) and works well for all types of ink as well as lipstick - Top of the Line Auto Detailing Supplies



Leather Care / Cleaning / Maintenance– These articles are designed to help detailer’s make informed decisions when selecting leather care products for automobiles. There is no hype; I am a writer not a vendor of leather care products, so this is not a sales pitch - just factual information

a) Leather types used (Automotive Leather) - Leather types used (Automotive Leather)

b) Covered Leather - Care and Maintenace of Covered Leather - Article

c) Natural Leather (Uncovered) - Leather Care (Natural Leather):

d) Unfinished Leather (Nubuck) - Unfinished leather(Nubuck) Cleaning/Care: